Yeah, let’s make the phone Wow we’re on this stuff, really expand. Yes, it does. Kent by this product
Yeah, let’s make the phone Wow we’re on this stuff, really expand. Yes, it does. Kent by this product
Yeah, let’s make the phone Wow we’re on this stuff, really expand. Yes, it does. Kent by this product
Hi, I’m Shannon from host improvements comm and today, I’m going to show you how to use a two-part spray foam insulation package. There’S a lot of different manufacturers of these packages, so just depend of what’s available in your area, even though I’m going to show you how to use this particular one make sure you for sure read all the safety instructions and the user manual in whatever package you Get just to be sure that in case there’s, any differences from manufacturer to manufacturer, so the one we have today is a what they call a two hundred kit. So what they’re saying is that the yield on it will be about two hundred square feet worth of foam at one inch thick, so we’re gon na be spraying close to two inches thick here, so we’ll be hopefully getting around 100 square feet out of these two Cans at two inches thick, so once I opened up the box, some of the first things you find is you’re gon na find the instruction manual as well as the the you know: safety equipment, that’s needed and all of little tips and that sort of thing so Make sure you read that over well, most of these guys have 1-800 numbers and websites as well. So if you have other questions, you can get ahold of somebody to ask. You should find an assortment of some different spray. Nozzles. These guys send two different types and they they’ve sent about. I don’t know four or five of each one. It looks like so this particular nozzle here is just for spraying. You know gaps and cracks sort of thing. It’S gon na send out a stream, so that would be that one here this one here is a fan tip. It’S got a bit of a v-notch cut in the end, so this one’s gon na spray out about a I don’t know it just depends on the kit you’re using but probably eight inch or so fan width of pattern, which is good for filling wall. Cavities, like what we’re gon na do here, so you’ll have a bit of a selection of the of the tips in there. This kit comes with two two containers: two two steel cylinders. This particular one already has the hoses and the gun already hooked to it. That does have a bit of a carrying handle here as well. Some of the bigger kits they’re gon na have tanks to teach in tanks, obviously because it’s two components, but the tanks are much larger, so they come boxed separately just because they’re too heavy to to carry is one unit. So in here, like I said this, one, the the gun and the hoses are already attached to the tanks. Some of them you will, it will come with a wrench and you may have to attach your own hoses and gun a couple things to go over. I guess, since I’ve got the gun out putting on the tips, the gun has a bit of a safety trigger here this one. So the yellow button down here has to be compressed or pressed before you can actually squeeze the trigger. The tanks are still turned off by the way, so you don’t want to turn them on until you’re actually ready to spray. So this gun has a safety on it to attach a nozzle just get. It orientated wait right, there’s, usually some marks in the end of the gun that correspond to the the way the nozzle looks and just push it in there on this one, this little lever here, you should just hear it click in like that and just look to Make sure that the little believer hook down on the lock knob on the top of the nozzle so putting the nozzle on just like that, taking it off squeeze this button, pull it off when you’re spraying? If you stop, for more than about thirty seconds, you’re, probably gon na find that you’ll have to change your nozzle. So it’s a good idea, get yourself all set up, get things out of the way, so that, once you start spraying, you can just kind of keep going with it and you aren’t losing a bunch of time. Otherwise, you’re gon na have to change your nozzles. What happens is the two components come in each come in their own hose and once they hit the nozzle there’s a kind of a spiral II set up inside of the nozzle here that actually starts to mix the two homes, because until the two products mixed together, They don’t actually have the chemical reaction which causes them to expand and cure. So if you stop for too long, it starts to set up in here and it clogs, and it’s not gon na work properly. So that’s why they send you multiple ones. So if you stop pop your tip off, put a new one on and away you go again, they also in this bag sent some petroleum jelly. So what they’d like you to do is smear some of the jelly right inside of the gun here and that just helps to allow your your tips not to seal up rate at the end of the gun. So you can just throw your tip way put anyone on and everything should be fine, so we’ve got the jelly optimally. Your tanks need to be around are usually about 24 degrees Celsius around so that’d be what I don’t know about 79 78 degrees Fahrenheit to get the most yield out of them and to make everything work properly, so keep them somewhere stored. Warm you can spray on to a cooler surface, but you don’t want something. That’S frosty and wet so like here where we’re doing this in February and it’s a below grade. So the wall is cool, but it’s actually still about 2 degrees Celsius. So and there’s no frost present, so that’s your tanks once we’re ready to go we’re gon na open, both valves on the tanks completely you’re gon na see the product start to come down the line once once. It fills up the lines. Oh before that, sorry, you should shake the tanks really well. I think it’s usually around 3040 seconds. You need to agitate the tanks that will just get things mixed together, open your valves, let it bleed into the lines. Do your petroleum jelly, get your tip, ready and and then you’re pretty much close to being ready to spray, and obviously, before that, put on all your your protective equipment protective equipment? These guys recommend, if you don’t have real good ventilation, that you should be wearing a respirator similar to this and it’s fitted with cartridges that are for organic vapor as well as particle filtration, so they’re kind of a two-part cannister one. Does the organic part of the chemicals and the other just does the any solids that might be in the air? So so it’s important to have that if you don’t have the proper ventilation, we did a did. A video with us with a similar product there a while ago, and we had a lot of people freaking out because we weren’t wearing a mask. We did talk in the video, how we had lots of ventilation and everything, but we still had people kind of freaking out, so we’ve actually gon na redo this video today and we don’t have the ventilation here quite as good. We just were able to open a couple windows, so we’re gon na use the mask for sure also some rubber gloves to protect your hands. You already see that I have the the painters suit on or the bodysuit on, to protect my clothing, I’m wearing a hat I’ll, have safety glasses on. So it’s just to protect yourself from any spray back that you might get. It doesn’t happen very often, but you never know you could get some bounce back onto you so and it doesn’t come off that easily. You definitely don’t want it in your eyes or your mouth or anything like that. So so that’s for the protective part. I think I’ve I’ve shaken the tanks, pretty good, we’ll give him another little shake shake before we go just before. I actually use a nozzle and once I’ve got the tanks open, I’m gon na shoot the gun into a garbage can or a box or in our case, we’re gon na use. A garbage can just to make sure I’m getting two fairly even streams coming out. Then I’ll get my tip on and and start spraying, so when you’re spraying it’s much like kind of in a way like spraying paint. If you’ve ever had to do that, we’re gon na come up to the wall. We want to be about six or eight inches away from the wall and we’re just gon na. You know, regulate our speed by hand to put on the amount that we want to see get on now. Remember it’s going to expand some, so you don’t want to fill the cavity rate up right away or once it expands you’re just gon na be having to cut it all off, because it’s it’s sticking out too much. You know. So it’s simply squeeze the trigger regulate. Your speed let go of the trigger squeeze and come down again. Okay, so you just keep doing that. We’Re gon na do these some of these spaces here in preparation. What we’ve done any electrical boxes, you’ll want to tape them up or seal them up, because once the foam gets in and around them, it’ll actually expand into the the open holes and cavities of the box and actually end up inside. So you want to prevent that. So we’ve just wrapped this one in some plastic, the wiring is fine to be embedded in the spray foam that isn’t a problem. We’Ve just basically brushed the wall off, made sure it wasn’t covered in any cobwebs and dust and that if the wall is damp or frosty or anything you you want to make sure you warm it up and dry it off before you spray this on that won’t Bond to the concrete as well, you will get some probably overspray onto some of your framing materials here. We’Ve just got two by twos, but that will clean off with a scraper fairly easily once it secured anything. That’S around the area that you don’t want to get foam on, just Paulie it up or tape it off or whatever. Just to be sure you aren’t getting some overspray on anything that you didn’t want to cover so we’re gon na spray. Some rate on this concrete wall, I’m gon na, go up and do a couple cavities in that wood wall too. It’S really just the same thing, but I just thought: I’d show it since we can. I think that’s pretty much covering everything that I’d talked about again. Remember just keep your foam canisters at a good temperature. These ones actually have a little temperature gauge on them. So that’s kind of handy to know where you’re at but just keep them inside, so they’re they’re warmed up and good to go. You don’t want to directly. You know blast a furnace on them or wrap them in electrical heat blanket or something like that, not nothing that extreme, but just make sure they’re warmed up well, okay, so I’m going to put on my protective equipment. You may not be able to hear me as well with the mask on so that’s why I was trying to cover everything here well before I get all suited up, but I may may do bit of talking with the mask on, but it may not be that Clear so so I’m just going to break away here for a minute, get my personal, personal, protective equipment on and then we’ll come back and show you how to spray [, Music, ], [, Music, ], [, Music, ], [, Music, ], [, Music, ], [, Music, ] [, Music, ] [, Music, ], [, Music, ], [, Music, ], [ Applause, ], [ Applause, ], [ Applause, ], [, Music, ], [, Music, ], okay, so we’ve let things sit here for a little bit and let the fumes get out. So we can take the mask off and finish up. You can see it’s expanded out nicely, it’s nice and firm. If you get a wrong mixture, sometimes you’ll get a clogged line or something. So if you get too much of one of the chemicals – and I can’t remember – which way it is you’ll actually get soft mushy foam and if it goes, the other way where the other chemical is is too much. The foam is really brittle in and it almost just doesn’t stand up. If you touch it, it actually crumbles away right away where this is well. This is good. This is nice and firm. That’S exactly what we want so now. The next step that we’re kind of at and some actually something I didn’t mention – was in most areas. If you spray up the two inches, you more than likely will not have to put the poly vapor barrier on the inside, so just check with your local codes. On that, the one thing to consider when doing that, and you notice that I put on two to three different coats like passes, so that those first couple get a chance to actually cure before you cover them up and form that skin over it, which gives you That that airlock or that air stoppage, because what’s gon na happen now you can see where some of this foam has expanded past the actual framing. So I’m gon na go back. You know and trim it back flush. So now, if I did had done that all in one pass now that I cut that that probably compromises the vapor barrier, qualities of it where because I’ve got those couple passes in behind that, I’m not going to be cutting into. In my opinion, that’s still pretty good, so in this case we’re we’re actually only in most in a lot of this we’re a little less than an inch and a quarter or inch and a half thick. So we’ll we’re gon na need and from my area, we’re gon na need another vapor barrier anyways, but something to consider so, if you’re free, if you’re spraying into a 2×4 wall where you’ve got the the ability to spray at two or two and a half inches Thick go ahead and do it check with your local Building Authority because you may not have to put a vapor barrier over after okay, let’s move on so we’ve got it all sprayed. You can see I’m just taking a utility knife and just shaving this down flush with the studs and just clean it all up peel it off. So you just go around, do all that, because otherwise, if it’s sticking out and you go to drywall over top of that, it’s it’s gon na give you some issues with pop screws and that sort of thing. Okay, so just keep going around another thing you can use is the old handy red bar scrape things down, get right, underneath it scrape it off like that once the foam is, is its secured point. This is not hazardous anymore. You can throw this right in the garbage, don’t eat it, throw it in the garbage, but you don’t you don’t need the mask. I don’t really even need the gloves on anymore, but just go around. Get things cleaned up so that it’s all good for when you want to put the finishing touches over top of it? What else did I forget anything? I think that I think that should cover it so now you’ve seen how to do it. This may not be the most economical way if you’re gon na do a whole basement. These kits aren’t aren’t real cheap. It might be cheaper to actually have a pearl come in and give you a price to do the whole thing. If you’re in a remote area, though this might be the only option you have, if you’re gon na do a you know a couple rooms or a little bit of space, then also again, it might might still be very economical to do it like this. This stuff works really good for joist ends as well so, and we do have a video on that. So if you want to check that out so yeah, I think that’s all. I can tell you so that again, I’m Shannon from house improvements and if you want to go to our website, you can check out the forum. Ask any questions you might have about this on there and I’ll get get a reply off to you as soon as I can, and also you can check out our YouTube channel and see all the other videos we have thanks for coming and watching.
I got ta say this is a great basement. It’S got a high ceiling, plenty of clearance under the carrying beam, and what I’m going to do today is I’m going to show you how to insulate the basement walls and get you prepped for drywall in it all right now, whenever you do in a basement over The main concern that you always have to worry about is moisture, and that’s why you had me install this plastic panel right. We did this a few weeks ago. What we’re looking for is any condensation that should collect on the plastic if it collects between the plastic and the foundation. That means the foundation is not sealed. Next thing, I look for any condensation that you collect on the surface of the plastic. That’S nice and dry. So weird right, we’re all set well we’re all set, except for one thing. I saw a couple of rust marks right here from these steel ties in the walls, and that tells me that the water might be leaking down. Get any water in this corner of the basement yeah a little bit. Maybe we’ve got a downspout up here. I think that might be need to be. Redirected could be well. These concrete ties actually hold the forms when they pour the foundation when they remove the forms they have to break off these steel ties when they do that they should seal them from the outside to stop water from coming. In now, you’ve got a few of them that the water’s coming in here so before we get started, I’m going to show you how to plug these holes from the inside all right, Brady take the center punch, put it on that tie and try to drive it Through going in oh yeah, good all right – let’s get a couple more here Tom. How far should these be going through? They only have to go into about a quarter to a half an inch good to plug the holes. We’Re going to mix up some hydraulics meant. It’S really fine and it’s ideal for this application, I’m going to put it in some water now I don’t want to mix up too much because it sets up really fast. I won’t only want to put mix up as much as I need. Okay, I’m mixing it up till it’s like the consistency of peanut butter. Now, once I put it in the hole it’s going to actually expand inside the hole, it’s going to fill that gap up, so water can’t leak through all right now before I apply the hydraulic cement to the hole, I want you to take that bottle and Miss The hole with water, the reason I want you to wet the concrete is, I don’t want it to take all the water out of my head relics, mint so it’ll dry evenly. Now I just want to push it in the hole just want to force it right. In there with the trial squeeze it off, and then we just want to flat it out. Okay, get to the next one. We’Re gon na lose that batch great starting to get a little stiffed on, but I can see how you can work it right in there. Yep get it in there all right before we lose the whole bucket. I got a couple over here. I want to grab just those holes for me, yep, oh yeah. This is what we’re going to insulate your foundation with it’s a two foot wide by 8 foot. High by 2 inches thick sheet of polystyrene, it has a tongue and groove joint. So when the pieces go together, it’ll be nice and tight and we’re going to apply it to your foundation with an adhesive. This is a foam board. Adhesive, it’s going to stick the foam right to the foundation specifically formulated for this application. It’S very important that you don’t have an adhesive with a solvent in it, because the solvent would actually deteriorate or eat the foam. Okay, now just tip the top into that space. Up above push it into the corner and hold it against the foundation: okay over there for a minute I’ll get another sheet. Alright, next sheet. Okay, it’s like now we’re ready to mark the next piece to go around this Karen. So I’m going to lay this piece on top of the last piece that we installed line it up I’ll, take a piece of scrap foam board two feet wide place it against the beam and I’m going to mark along this end of it. Take it bring it down and line this side up with the outside edge of the beam right here and I’m gon na put a mark right. There take my level go across the bottom of the beam, with a level line and Mark between my two marks. Now I’ll cut that piece out, this is where the slot needs to be cut for the beam. I have a reference line on each side of the beam. I want to extend those all the way up to the top of the sheet. Just using the end of my tape to cut a groove now I’ll, just cut it out with a handsaw, see how it fits okay, okay, let’s get the next one. Okay, there you go. That’S pretty good Tom about an hour. We got this whole wall up. I told you it’s gon na go fast now we have to think about how you’re going to attach your drywall to the wall and how we’re going to do that. We’Re actually going to make a wood grid system using this 1 by 3, spruce board. First thing I did is I measure to the top of the foundation over here and then I measure down about three inches and I put a line over here. I then measured up off the floor about 3 inches and placed another line. Then I divided the space in half and put a centerline. I divided the top space in half put another line divided the bottom space in half with another line. I got it so we’re gon na have five horizontal nailing strips right. Next thing: we’re going to do is we’re going to snap some chalk lines all the way across the wall and apply our wood strips. Alright, here’s how we’re going to attach the spruce boards to the wall. This is called a spring spike. It doesn’t have a point on the end like a regular nail, but it has a little band on the end. It acts like a spring when I drive this in through the concrete that spring will try to straighten out holding this bike into the wall. The spring spike is four inches long. I have to drill a hole. Fly hole has to be five inches deep because I don’t want the spring spike to bottom out when I Drive it home fill the holes, I’m using a hammer drill with a 3/16 masonry bit. Alright, that’s great now Brady you could actually install a wall board right to the horizontals, but I want to create more depth to accommodate the electrical to do that, we’re going to run war one by three boards. Only this time vertically, right on the surface of the horizontal and to attach them, I’m going to use drywall screws now we’re attaching our pieces of one by three vertically sixteen inches on center fasten our wall boy to it. What do you think Brady Thomas looks excellent? Well, now what we have a to chases, we can run a wire down from the ceiling vertically or horizontally behind the uprights by building the wall out, we’ve also created more depth in the wall. So now we can use a standard electrical outlet if we want to mount it here we dig out a little bit of insulation and then put it in up against the one by this is fantastic. You got me all set. I’M gon na get my brother in here this week and help me finish it off. Well, good luck! Thank you very much. You
Spray foam insulation like this works very well in a variety of situations.
Now, when you’re insulating around a window, you also want to make sure
I tell you: I go down the aisle in the home center, those be a thousand cans.
How do you pick the right one?
Well, actually, if you’re doing a window or a door, you
That’s easy enough takes the guesswork out of it. Doesn’T it
Now, when I’m filling that void between the window and the frame, I want to put a
A door will not open. Have you
What are you right now?
The gap right here between the foundation and the
I’D cut the fiberglass insulation around the outlet put it into place, but before I did that I would put this insulation can right in back there and I would spray foam right back down and that will fill that gap.
Stop the air drafts
So that’s all our infiltration out to the outside, but what about these holes now anytime, you have an electrical outlet or electric a wire, a pipe or a
Do it at this level in every level sure to stop the flame spread yeah all right, but they make it caulking a foam caulking that says fire blocking on it. So what’s the difference in that on the standard? Well, the only difference between this and the standard is this is a brighter color. The reason they have a brighter color is. When I get my inspections, I asked for the inspector to come and look at the wall framing, for example, he’s now looking to make sure that the wall is fire, blocked off, that’s your and he can see that bright color. That’S the only difference right all right. So we’ve sealed up all the penetration in the building.
What about a big opening like this at the rim? Joist? What do you do? Well, I wouldn’t use the foam and it can. I would use something different. This is more of a professional product. It’S a two-part polyurethane foam, that’s